Since Crescat Sententia doesn’t have comments, I’m writing in response to Waddling Thunder’s discussion of Olney’s book Lulu’s Provencal Table. I happen to agree that this classic has less Olney than one might ordinarily expect, but from my perspective, Waddling Thunder is missing something crucial. This is no ordinary cookbook; it is, rather, a tribute to a great winemaking family and their "extended family" of associations from Olney to Kermit Lynch to Alice Waters and her compatriots. Olney intentionally removes himself from the foreground in the book, preferring instead to allow Lulu Peyraud to tell the story of the food, wine, and friends associated with Domaine Tempier.
For the book is nothing less than Olney’s argument that certain foods, certain wines, and a group of special friends can transcend each of these categories and become something richer: a community. This community, and its history, do receive a much deeper treatment in Olney’s Reflexions, but to my mind, Lulu’s Provencal Table stands as an essential tribute to the Peyrauds who built Tempier and those who carry it on into the next generation.
(photo of Catherine and Jean-Marie Peyraud by the author, November 2000)
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