Recent Wines: Tempier 2002 and Servin 2002 Chablis Les Pargues

Only a couple of notes this week.  I tried the Domaine Tempier 2002 regular bottling this week.  Although I revere Tempier, buy Tempier every year and am rarely disappointed, the 2002 is definitely a tougher vintage, and less pleasing than any vintage in memory (possibly stacking up like 1994).  This is likely due to the disastrous conditions prior to the 2002 harvest, which wiped out the southern Rhone Valley and wreaked havoc throughout Europe.   Who knows, the single vineyards may turn out better, given more rigorous selection and smaller production.  I feel bad writing this, since Tempier is probably my one "indispensible" wine, but I gotta be honest about my reaction to the 2002 regular.

The real gem this week was a bottle of Domaine Servin 2002 Chablis I bought on a whim from Whole Foods.  The wine is from the lieu-dit of Les Pargues, which was formerly a premiere cru vineyard but is now declassified.  So this wine is technically an AOC from a named lieu-dit, which leads to better-than-average quality at an incredibly reasonable price.  Whole Foods has the wine at $18 retail, less with case discount.  The wine, which is bottled unfiltered, is lush and full on the palate, with a lemon cream nose punctured by massive minerality.  No kidding — this is real Chablis for less than $20.

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