I’m trying the 2004 Servin Les Pargues Chablis and 2004 Fevre Champs Royeaux Chablis side by side tonight, since both have arrived in Seattle and are reasonably priced (each is retailing in the low 20’s hereabouts). In years past I’ve done the Servin (2002 and 2003) as house white during the spring and summer, and the Fevre AOC Chablis in the past has been a fairly good bargain. I’m looking to repeat that in 2004 since most people end up enjoying it instead of the oaky buttery domestic chardonnays and I love the stuff. At first taste, the Servin is what I enjoy about Chablis – the steely, mineral-heavy aroma like the dusty metallic scent of warm rocks on a hot day. The Fevre is also good, perhaps a “darker”, more slate-like aroma, but both wines are pretty darned good for 22 bucks. There’s a flabbiness in the finish of the Fevre that I’m not enjoying as much as the laser acidity and tartness of the Servin’s finish, but both wines are a good value and worth the money. I may just have to snag a bit of both to serve over the next year.
This week I also tried the 2005 Syncline rose, which unlike last year is a blend of their various roses. I thoroughly enjoyed their 2004 Grenache rose, and still have some in the cellar. This is fuller, being a complete southern Rhone blend, but with plenty of that ripe domestic juiciness. Syncline is contining the experiment of using screw caps with this wine, which I think is fabulous, having had another year of corked wines with my tasting group.
I recommend all three of these wines as low-cost alternatives to the expensive, over-hyped stuff everyone else is chasing. Just let me get my order in first.