Vieux Telegraphe 1998 and other recent wines

The Vieux Telegraphe 1998 is nowhere near ready, but I’m moving from one cellar space to another, and during the tedious process of inventory I discovered I had an odd number of bottles, so naturally I decided that it was time to check on it. The wine is still brooding and dark, showing little depth the night we opened it but a lot of tannin and some dark juicy fruit. The next evening it was showing the dark leathery rubber core one expects from a “good” year VT as it begins to mature, but without any of the bright red high-toned fruit one also expects. Only on the second evening after opening did the “red” fruit notes come out in the nose, in the form of syrupy cherries from the Grenache, but still with plenty of dark closed potential that just plain needs more time. The wine is going to be phenomenal when more mature, and I’m very very glad I continue to buy and stock Vieux Telegraphe in my cellar, year in and year out. I’ve tried every vintage (except 1987) since 1978, and haven’t been disappointed. Even the “lighter” years like 1984 have been interesting, and although the 1982 and 1984 fade very quickly after opening these days, the 1988 is still giving a lot of pleasure compared to the dark, closed 1989.

I just tried a half bottle of 2001 Tempier “classique” (or “regular”), found while moving cellar spaces. The wine is deep purple-black, as expected, but mellowing a bit from the vibrant tart raciness that characterizes this wine just after bottling (the Tempier regulars in general, I mean). There are hints of tree bark earthiness starting to show, but not much in the way of leather or rubber yet. Still, the tannins are silky and not obtrusive, and it’s very pleasant to drink.

While moving, I discovered a cache of the 1995 Charbonniere Chateauneuf, a Kermit Lynch wine that was very reasonable (low 20’s) back in the 1997-time frame when I bought it. I never really considered it part of my “core” set of Chateauneufs to age, so I was pleasantly surprised to find a couple of bottles. Opening one tonight as I simmer a pasta sauce, I find it reminds me of Les Cailloux: kirsch-like cherry fruit, with salty herbal aromas and a beef au-jus note on the palate. Surprisingly good, actually. Not quite mature, but I’m not sure what I think about aging it longer, since I have no experience with older examples of this wine (except for one, a long time ago, which was dried out and not at its best). But the other three bottles aren’t destined to last much longer anyhow, since this is tasty now!


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